Crotonese, born in 1984, past with Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana and present with big stars, (re)dressed in stretchy fabric, luxurious jumpsuits and erotic cutouts. The French, for whom fashion is a serious business, are betting on him, on his tight silhouettes and mundane nudes, healthy carriers of inclusivity, far beyond the facade of viral and Instagram shows. And so are we.
Andrea Adamo is one of the finalists for the prestigious ANDAM award., the richest prize in Europe, which has been a driving force for young talents in the fashion system since 1989, offering economic and logistical training to help them in the (difficult) task of transforming their creative vision into a robust business model. With the same brand ANDREADAMO, designer from Calabria claims ANDAM’s most coveted award: the Grand Prix from 300 thousand euros, who has not seen the Italian challenger since 2014 Fausto Puglisi and who is reviewing the shortlist of 6 finalists today to reflect the desire “… to really show how environmental and social considerations are as important as aesthetics and creativity” , as indicated in vvd Chloé President and CEO Riccardo Bellini, Curator of the 2023 Fashion Awards.
Besides Andrea Adamo, in fact, they are also competing for the Grand Prix. Duran Lantinck, Esther Manas, LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, GmbH and Gauchere, a group of contemporary labels for which sustainability and inclusivity are no longer just good intentions, but the future of multifaceted fashion inspired by diversity. For him, Andrew Adamit’s been that way since the beginning, since 2020 Naked, the first collection that makes the color of the skin a fetish, a symbol of self-acceptance and nudity, which unites and at the same time distinguishes. A powerful aesthetic whose forte is knitwear – a second-skin, seamless garment that proudly celebrates the woman’s physical form beyond curves and sterile standard sizes.
Because “it’s not enough to have plus size or black models on the catwalk, we can’t stop there, we’re content to shut our conscience’s mouth, building an alibi of honesty and justice that has no solid foundation,” as the designer himself stated. NSS Journal, some time ago. We need real power a fashion capable of dressing diverse bodies and souls, far from the aseptic limitations of size and gender.. Andrea Adamo, and that’s more than enough reason for us to root for him.
ANDAM Prize: characteristics of the five competition prizes
He wants it, in 1989 Natalie Dufour who, working for the French Ministry of Culture, is aware that of the funds allocated to the arts – between photography, music and design – one important thing is missing: fashion. Martin Margiela should win the award in the year it was created., but after him there are many persons well known today who have been awarded ANDAM (abbreviation of the National Association for the Development of the Arts de la fashion): from Victor and Rolf to Christophe Lemaire, from Jeremy Scott to Marine Serre. passing through Ludovic de Saint-Sernin. All the winners of this The Grand Prix which, although aimed at designers of any nationality, requires the opening of the company’s headquarters in France (and therefore a show in Paris). A prize that, although the most stable, is not the only coveted one. In fact, the runner-up receives Special Prize in the amount of 100 thousand euros, the same as Pierre Berger Prizededicated to young talents with brands on French soil (in 2023: Avellano Arthur Avellano West Paris founded by former Ami, Arthur Robert Vaillant, designed by Alice Vaian). In the end; last two awards dedicated to innovation and accessoriesthe last sector in which the Italian figures today Marco Panconesi who, on the evening of the presentation of projects by the jury, on June 29, will compete with a jewelry designer Alighieri Rosh Mahtani, as well as with luxurious headdresses Ruslan Baginsky. Together with the French Ministry of Culture and the Committee for the Promotion and Development of the French Fashion Industry as partners, ANDAM’s permanent jury also features prominently, a team of big names made up of Saint Laurent CEO Francesca Bellettini and Chanel fashion president Bruno Pawlowski. Or, again, OTB chairman Renzo Rosso and “ruler of fashion” and Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault. Equally notable, the range of guest cast for the 2023 edition, including writer and fashion critic Angelo Flaccavento, models Gigi Hadid and Pat Cleveland, all the way up to director Vogue ChinaMargaret Zhang.
From Ester Manas to GmbH, through LGN, Lantink and Gauchere: Who are the other ANDAM 2023 finalists?
Among them, you may have learned the name of one, thanks to a super famous guest and a certain showmanship that dedicated the last catwalk to virality. LGN Louis-Gabriel Noushi little known outside of a narrow circle of insiders, and yet the January fashion show with Gabriel Emily in Parisaka actor Lucas Bravo spattered with blood a la american psycho, dispersed on social networks, thanks to which Nuti became known to a wider audience. Indeed, the literary reference is a constant in the work of the French creative, who, in addition to Bret Easton Ellis, cited in his exhibitions a wide variety of authors, from Pierre Choderlos de Laclos to Baudelaire. Others fil rouge his fashion, gender fluidity and sustainabilityusing materials with a low environmental impact, including natural dyes, as well as buttons and labels made from recycled plastic.
For Maria-Christine Staz from Gaucheron the other hand, ethics means transparency, full control over suppliers and full traceability of the raw materials from which the clothes of this label are packaged. Since its inception in 2013, the brand has been releasing sophisticated and minimalist womenswear that uses a slightly loose fit and a discreet palette that does not yield to color. He was already close to the award in two editions in 2014 and 2015. Will the third one be correct?
Duran Lantinck it’s another name with little resonance beyond the gods connoisseurs fashion industry. However, as for Nuti, you may have seen his work as early as 2018, when he signed silk and tulle pink pants to mimic the female reproductive organ – for the video. pink, an act of pop feminism branded by Janelle Monáe. But the really interesting aspect of the Dutch designer’s work is creative reuse, recycling, which, through the use of unsold products of large brands (for example, Balmain, Prada and Proenza Schouler), allows you to create a sexy image. , original and always different fashion.
And sexy, without a doubt, are also leaders Esther Manaslabel founded by the designer of the same name together with Balthazar Delepierre, triumph of body positivity transform into modular and ultra-feminine jersey dresses that transcend physical typology.
Closes the circle ANDAM 2023 finalistsplus the aforementioned Andrea Adamo, the creative duo behind him GmbH, who recently left Trussardi after two years of collaboration. The brand’s DNA is multiculturalism is now needed in times of great migrations, as well as the label’s natural “cosmopolitan blood” effect given the nationality of two designers (Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Norwegian-Pakistani fashion photographer and artist, and Serhat Isik, Turkish-German designer).
Summing up; the shortlisted ANDAM finalists are a mirror of society and thus changing fashion; a fashion system that, in its role as an innovator, cannot today ignore the necessary social and environmental considerations. “We deeply believe that now more than ever we need the young creatives and designers of tomorrow to be the engines of positive change and innovation for our industry to thrive in the future,” he elaborated. vvd, CEO of Chloé Riccardo Bellini. So who will win ANDAM 2023? The recording is scheduled for June 29th.
Source: Elle