First Looks at Fashion Week New York for autumn-winter 2023 2024 the common thread seems clear: we will live in balance between one dystopia – like the one brought to the podium Marc Jacobs – This fable Goth like the one you imagined Rodarte. If the general mood of the coming year does not promise to be the brightest, in contrast to the gloomy shades major recession there are a number of budding designers who seems ready to downplay when faced with a crisis to the sounds of vitamin palette and ironic details, or escape completely into new fantasy worlds, taking to the extreme this desire for escape from reality, of which we have all been victims for several years now. Between symbolic and non-symbolic debuts, here it is new names and the most interesting brands of New York Fashion Week and why you should follow them.

New names for New York Fashion Week

Heron Preston

Surely he was most anticipated debut in New York and it lived up to expectations. Considered among fathers Street clothes modernAlong with Kanye West and Virgil Abloh, Preston has been showing in Paris since 2017, but has never stepped on the catwalk of the city, which played a crucial role in his creative and individual development. In fact, New York City was where Preston got close to fashion as a student at the Parsons School of Design, as well as his home for over twenty years. So it was a symbolic first time, full of meaning. And the Fall-Winter 2023-24 collection marked its inseparable connection with the city and with background a designer deeply rooted in fashion Street. In continuous alternation contrasts high lowthey take turns on the podium fluffy leggings and dresses explicit, front closure micro top and hooded maxi down jackets, overalls with a relaxed fit, bring along heels, mini skirts over trousers, slip dress and baseball caps, the inevitable dark glasses and masks that look like spectators for augmented reality, but also absurd elements such as i barbed wire effect necklace Hello mail clothing: the parade were cool kids.

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Tara Babylon

halfway between fashion design and performing arts, Tara Babylon’s universe shines for the first time at New York Fashion Week, home to the British-Iraqi artist, who has studied at Central Saint Martins in London, Parsons in New York and various scholarships. Before realizing that fashion was her real passion, Tara Babylon worked dancer in clubs and many such pictorial images, at times pulpis reflected in his creations: impressionistic painting of characters extravagantwho go overboard with make-up, hairstyles and, of course, clothes that are completely focused on color, craft techniques (with a preference for hand weaving and crocheting) and theatrical silhouettes. The result, also for the fall-winter 2023-2024 season, is an exciting combination of styles with a high dose of drama that, in terms of production, also has a strong commitment to stability.

Zimo

If we only said that Zimo uses recycled fabrics, then it could pass for one of the many brands that make sustainability their mission (and in any case it would be sacrosanct in itself), but in this case, a sense of responsibility to the environment has also been accused of sentimental value with a touch of nostalgia. Design approach Zimo Janbrand mastermind, really kind documentary: with the help of each collection, it strives to fix in time the memory of distant times, of traditions and customs that are in danger of being lost. In particular, the story ofAsian immigration in the 90s and Chinese subcultures developed during the same period. Although, on the one hand, the silhouettes are ultra-modern and wink Street clotheson the other hand, tissues are a mixture deadwood received from Chinese elders, or pajamas and lingerie bought from stores like Shanghai Towel, which can evoke childhood memories for a designer.

Melke

Peaches, egg yolks, fruit slices and mice: le emoticons they transform into playful appliqués to decorate cardigans, blazers and dresses, or replace bra cups for an unexpected twist. Small like this: ironic, with a very high digital potential, rooted in cultural memes – somewhat reminiscent of Puppets and Puppets. Among the successful experiments that emerged from the pandemic, the brand was born from a vision Emma Gage, a Midwestern-born who named the brand after her friends teased her about her peculiar pronunciation of the word “milk.” In addition to the extravagance that also permeates the Fall/Winter 2023-24 collection with prints inspired by children’s drawings, fluorescent details on the hair and brows and fun appliqués, Melke is also liquid including brand and most importantly a lot respect for the environment and working conditions: in fact, everything is made with natural materials and chemical-free dyes, and the production chain is controlled thanks to the network of manufacturers and suppliers created by Gage.

Isidore Montag

Colin LoCascio

Colin LoCascio has been working on the sly for years, and now it’s finally time for the designer to take responsibility for his accomplishments. Born and raised in Queens, works in Marc JacobsLoCascio has been creating custom looks for several celebrities for many years, including Bella Hadid and Cardi B. In a well calibrated comparison aesthetics raw and maximalismlinks to youth subcultures, irony AND study of forms, his collections are full of prints, 3D details inspired by childhood memories, colorful and playful knitwear that convey the idea of ​​fluidity and inclusivity. Do you need more points in his favor? Among its historical inspirations is the legendary Fran Drescher, the main character of the cult TV series. Nanny and for autumn-winter 2023-24 promises even more collections. full of fancy decorationsmade in collaboration with the same producer Alexander McQueen.

Studio Ayama

The concept of Ayama Studio, a brand founded by Maya J with a single active collection, is as simple as it is powerful: “I sew the clothes I want to make” (“I make the clothes I want to make”), according to the bio for the Instagram account. And in a sector that is the victim of an unstoppable grip on supply and demand that crushes the creativity of many designers every season, the idea is not to be underestimated. What is interesting about this project is precisely the desire to contrast with the rhythms of the industry and take your time. “I love the idea of ​​being a bit like Frank Ocean of fashion,” he explained to W Magazine. Years pass between one album and another, and people […] he remembers it and wants more and more, waiting for a new one to come out.” Ethics aside, we still don’t have much to say about the brand, but the aesthetic is clean and very modern, urban. simple and geometric silhouettes crafted with sartorial austerity, sumptuous suits in soft nappa or calfskin, biker jackets, cargo trousers, clothing imbued with utilitarian charm.an approach off-season and opportunity remix endlessly.

Wiederhoft

At the head of the brand of the same name, Jackson Wiederhoft he devoted himself to fashion in the purest sense of the word: it is stylistic experiments, artistic creativity, exploration of the past and at the same time an avant-garde vision without inhibitions. His very theatrical collections dress characters that could be villains or heroesancient folklore and also one futuristic and sometimes dystopian fairy tale. The intricate designs, which sometimes also include crinoline scaffolding, are inspired by the history of costume pairing with pop references creating an atmosphere with surreal undertones that defy gender norms and any other social imposition.