A small but severe heart attack pierced netizens while reading the alleged farewell to the scenes Jacquemus. “Tomorrow will be my last performance,” the irreverent social post sings, immediately followed by a second carousel photo and a goliard denial with a New Year’s parody phrase. Last fashion show, yes, but of the year.
With this classic but always effective pun, the designer has once again captured the attention of his loyal audience, eager to enjoy his sharp cuts and his playfully resized accessories. In the middle of a cold December and in anticipation of the approaching solstice, Jacquemus avoids any glacial nature, throwing off the icy winter veil of our hemisphere in order to bring the whole world to its Provence in the period of eternal harvest. Without betraying his stylistic essence, Jacquemus acts in parade Rafias this is speculative decalation of its aesthetics.
So far, the middle name of each of his collections has been a reference to a mood, an ideal, a positive stereotype that praises such values as sensuality, exoticism, the spirit of adaptation, refusing to square beauty in various contexts. In fact, the designer brought to the runway practical examples of how Jacquemus clothing can become a common denominator in every aspect of our lives.
FROM Rafiasinstead, a visual testament of the House is irrevocably signed declaring his representative materialexactly raffia. A vegetable fiber reminiscent of the earthy, burnt but fertile veins of the south of France., with its paradigmatic wicker hats, bags de la plage à jour on the elbows that go from the beach to light casual wear by the sea. Ductile but semi-rigid, solid but easily dyed, rough but not scratchy, this substance blends well with eternal summer clothing Jacquemusin pseudo-village selection, full of pleasant and always necessary good mood.
Raffia first appears on accessories. Bell caps they are covered in raffia like branches of a weeping willow, a sort of tousled maxi hair after a day of pastoral love between the barn walls. Wide-brimmed versions from the Côte d’Azur are made of woven and almost laminated raffia.woven to perfection and without the slightest stray lint, echoing the cinematic style of the New Wave muse. Picnic buckets with leather handle miniature bambino or soft silk clutch, while pièce de résistance is a wavy raffia sachet. Raffia also for jewelry like i maxi sunflower earrings, a nostalgic reference to the romantically youthful gesture of the flower placed behind the ear. Finally, raffia cushions are also present on the sandals, despite appearing sporadically in shoes that instead lean towards leather, denim, and iridescent faux fur.
Clothes also match Dogma of Jacquemus stylewith the omnipresent carved details, important and geometric cutouts, soft draperies, which are diluted in the design with a linear and almost non-deforming cut. It’s a tangle of lace that reveals itself in double sets of miniskirts and crop tops, or even the blazer closes only with a thin metal buckle that adorns the neckline, passing through timeless midi dresses, which, of course, are dominated by raffia. The latter occurs as trimming sleeves, skirts or shirts, replacing the more familiar plumage. In the version with chain mail for a large bustier worn over jeans, raffia also becomes a spectacular underskirt for short dresses and oversized dresses.finding its culmination in the image that is worn Irina Shayk in an oil-colored bralette and a tone-on-tone skirt with raffia appliqué. With occasional shades of lilac, pink and dusky shades of peach and chantilly yellow interspersed with a solid color of white, black, khaki or denim blue, the show ends saying a la Jacquemus, Vittoria Ceretti’s boomin a deconstructed black dress with a train worn over her naked body, which reveals her undulating curves, similar to those of Provence wheat.
In the presence of special guest starsi.e. great Pamela Anderson in total white look which pays homage to her 1999 VMA outfit by designer Ivy Supersonic, Rafias it is an injection of hope that also passes through fashion, through this gesture of wearing clothes that temporarily protect and insulate from the many ugliness of everyday life. A tactile and fragrant material, raffia smells like rain on the horizon that comes to refresh an arid but still fertile land. This is an ever-present memory of passions lived with the intensity of a fleeting joy that remains in the heart and blood more than any other love story. First of all, Le Raphia is the ancestral aspect of the earth, its warmth, its firmness, which always brings us home, safe, in the arms of the mother. In a summer night’s dream.
Source: Elle