There Paris Fashion Week she left with a bang. And on his first day, he already gives us fashion shows. Saint Laurent, stillunder the eiffel tower. Certainly not a new place for Anthony Vaccarello who already in past seasons chose it as a worthy backdrop for his fashion shows. But every time the effect between guests and insiders is always the same: breathtaking, like the first time. An effect that intensifies and spreads with the start of an extraordinary show and with a crowd of crazy models walking confidently along a long catwalk: very tall and proud, icy and perfect, this is also the “calling card” of Vaccarello’s style. Saint Laurent, which offers its fashionable liturgy, is true to the line, but never tiresome. On the other hand. It’s always a crescendo, and from 2016, when the Belgian designer took over the creative direction of Saint Laurent, to this day, every season, he gives us his new best collection. That’s for sure. And again, this is the perfect combination of Monsieur Yves’ codes – elegance, sensuality, strength (he spoke of his style “Chanel freed women, I gave them strength”) – and the minimal, clean line of Vaccarello’s cut.
Sophisticated, mysterious, sensual, sexy, Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2023 collection it is a synthesis of glamor in a dark key. We find again Grace Jones, 80s, Martha Graham, 30s and even The Matrix. And it’s already at the top of our wish list for many reasons. Double-breasted coats with puffy shoulders (Maybe it’s spring, what’s the difference? Vaccarello is certainly not the first to offer us winter clothes for the off-season, in this Miuccia Prada, who created furs for summer in 2013, was certainly a pioneer) long jersey dresses with bottoms to the ground and lines that wrap around the body to remind us of the tube dresses of the 30s created by Martha Graham; i kagule dress (who are already a confirmed trend of the season, as well as the protagonists of the Milan catwalks) e sheer sleeveless dresses; in the end long leather trench coats with bare shoulders. Ideal. Vaccarello knows how to “infuriate” his leitmotifs from collection to show, and at the end of the show they already crystallize in the mind as irreplaceable must-haves. Also thanks to an ultra-complex and nighttime palette that ranges from olive green to eggplant and burgundy, from black to brown and tobacco. Monochrome garments that can be worn in tone or contrasting style, with only two outlets to interrupt this chromatic rhythm: animalistic dressembroidered with sequins, and penultimate image with white dots on a black background. Thus, the circle between the aesthetics of Vaccarello and the signature of Monsieur Yves closes again. And yet, despite the “bindings” to the past, there is not a trace of nostalgia in this collection. Instead, it vibrates with coolness and modernity on every frequency you listen to.
Source: Elle