papier: literally a blank slate. This is the name that Simon Port Jacquemus wanted to donate the collection that was shown yesterday in Provence to Camargue. His collection to match the season fashion Autumn Winter 2022 2023 (even if the creative director of the house of the same name rejects the seasonality of his clothes) was presented Arles, in the extraordinary natural landscapes of the salt mines, becoming the very metaphor for sketches drawn on a white sheet. And once again confessing his love for his roots, grandmother Lilina and dispassionate love for antiques.
Le Papier: Jacquemus dedication to his grandmother Lilin
It was his grandmother who took Simon to flea markets when he was just a child. in Jacquemus clothes, the protagonists of the Fall-Winter 2022 2023 fashion collectionthey return to relive those moments today as if they were memories. Provencal tablecloths, vases, sheets, various and possible objects and knick-knacks: in this desire to re-celebrate his origins and childhood, Simon Porte Jacquemus pays tribute to the passion that his grandmother passed on to him. The same passion that at a more mature stage of his life – and his creative career – he had the opportunity to explore endlessly, also devoting himself to the study of design.
Le Papier: Sculpture by Diego Giacometti as a source of inspiration
Collection Le Papier it also arises from an emotional connection with the sculptural work of Diego Giacometti., an artist that Simon Porte Jacquemus often thought of during his creative process. Discovered by the designer about a decade ago through an exhibition in Milan, the sculptor’s work was then studied at the Musée Picasso in Paris in 2018, when he was also able to appreciate some of his plaster casts. Coincidence or not, the concept of white (chalk) is now making a comeback and seems to inspire and act from Phil Rouge chromatic in his collection Le Papier. No less fundamental is the inspiration that comes from Miró and Matisse, the great names in art, which the designer considers the maximum reference points (and this is also confirmed by the spherical shape of his Le Sac Rond bose).
Le Papier: The Camargue as a place for the soul
Art, sculpture and roots now meet in the Camargue parade. After the fashion show Le Splash, held in Hawaii and imbued with sophisticated pop mood, the founder of the brand is now returning home. To the south of France, where his essence is best expressed, and in a place that speaks of him, of the memory of his mother Valerie (who unfortunately died when he was young), of his grandmother Lilin. A place that smells like home and chocolate painsready to welcome stars and friends of the House, including Victoria Beckham, Tina Kunaki and Vincent Cassel.
Le Papier: Dresses Jacquemus Fall Winter 2022 2023
The use of white dominates Jacquemus Fall Winter 2022 2023 fashion. Flawless cotton and imperceptible sheer effect fabrics come together to sublimate the tone-on-tone concept. Even asymmetry prevails: generous necklines and slits, boat necklines and one-shoulder dresses, cutouts that expose the navel, sublimating the concept of sensuality. Along with white, beige is also present: this color is dear to the Jacquemus aesthetic, which also suggests the unbiased use of linen in this collection. A more durable and structured fabric that adds volume to a feminine silhouette.
AT palette fashion colors for fall-winter 2022 2023 offered by the Jacquemus show, typical shades of an imaginary reference season are also included. Brown is judiciously used for striped suits, consisting of maxi blazers, the closure of which is distinguished by the presence of metal zippers. On the other hand, coordinated trousers fall straight to the ground. Returning the main nuances to inspiration, also dictated by foliage autumn, green here: the protagonist of long and flowing dresses, tight and sensual, as well as eye-catching accessories that can be worn in the hand. Finally, the use of jersey in contrast with white tulle: an unusual, unusual, unexpected vision. However, amazing. A riot of beauty that finds its most powerful and memorable echo in the surrounding context – the salt flats of the Camargue.
Source: Elle