Mullet fishing is not just a Santa Catarina tradition. It guarantees the maintenance of the production chain, which includes tourism, gastronomy, transport, export and research. Photo: Disclosure.

Collecting the mullet is a local tradition that dates back to the 16th century and is renewed year after year. In Brazil, about 80% of the mullet fishing is carried out in Santa Catarina, where it is considered a cultural heritage, a heritage that is part of the affective memory of many families, which contributes to the development of tourism, trade and health promotion.

The ideal conditions for a good catch are usually in autumn and winter, when an intense mass of polar air dominates the coast of Santa Catarina. Some mullets emerge directly from the sand of the beach and go to the wood-fired oven of some of the inhabitants of the region. Others end up on the tables of Santa Catarina through commercial fishing.

Quotas ensure more sustainable fisheries

Jaime Fernandez, who is in charge of maintenance of fishing boats at the port of Itajai, says that fishing is an adventure where you can succeed, you can win, tie or lose. Each boat trip to catch mullet costs about 100,000 reais. This value refers to the purchase of ice (approximately 30 tons); diesel, food and crew salaries.

Currently, industrial fishing accounts for 25% of the total due to the quota limit introduced in 2018. And, according to oceanographer Luis Carlos Matsuda, this quota system is a fisheries management model for all of Brazil. In the southeastern and southern regions, mullet is the only resource controlled by quotas, and it is being improved year by year.

He also says that there is a technical working group that has discussions with the manufacturing sector, with academia, with the government, and it is improved every year precisely because of the concern for the exploitation of the resource.

“If exploited in a sustainable way, we can sustain this fishery for many, many years,” he adds.

A tradition that also drives science

Mullet fishing is not just a Santa Catarina tradition. It guarantees the maintenance of the production chain, which includes tourism, gastronomy, transport, export and research. Whether artisanal or industrial, it is capable of mobilizing a large network of people, services and trade. Of the 1,850 tons seized last year, almost all of them remained in the state. This is because there is a loyal market of Santa Catarina consumers.

And it’s not just the local cuisine. It also boosts tourism and promotes several events such as the saragasu, a fun fishing competition that attracts visitors from all regions.

There is a lot of research on the mullet, and the marine fish breeding laboratory at UFSC (Federal University of Santa Catarina) in Florianopolis is the first in the world to replicate the entire life cycle of this species in captivity.

If at sea you have to rely on the help of nature, ideal conditions, wind and climate, then in captivity a lot of study and research is required to guarantee a mullet all year round.

“Here in the south, the mullet is ripe for spawning thanks to the lower temperature, if we have several pavilions with different temperatures, we can grow mullet all year round,” explains Caio Frans Magnotti, head of Lapmar UFSC.

The technology has been mastered, but there is still a company that will buy the project for mass production. In this way, it will be possible to create a production chain capable of producing taxes for the state, jobs, new companies, new technologies.

“There are a lot of products that we still don’t get to today, because fishing is concentrated in two to three months,” Kayo comments.

source of omega 3

The price of mullet is one of the main attractions among consumers, but many people think that it is not very healthy due to the fat it contains.

According to nutritionist Takeo Kimoto, removing fat from the loin of a mullet is not interesting. This is because it is rich in omega-3s, great for protecting our neurons, improving our memory, reducing the risk of, for example, depression, Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s.

He also says that omega-3s also affect the cardiovascular system, reducing the risk of heart attack, increasing HDL levels, considered good cholesterol, and lowering bad cholesterol in addition to triglycerides.

Export to the Asian market

The taste of mullet caviar is considered one of the best in the world – Photo: Disclosure

For the inhabitants of Santa Catarina, one mullet is enough to fill the eyes and make the mouth salivate, now, for the rest of the world, what really matters is caviar, also known as “Brazilian caviar”. This is because the taste of mullet caviar is considered to be one of the best in the world and many people come from all over the world to buy caviar here in the state.

Tamiji Yoshimura, owner of the Yoshi fish factory in Porto Belo, says that one of his highest value-added export products is mullet roe. He says he has been exporting to Taiwan for four years now. During the harvest, the entire production of the plant is directed to the extraction and export of caviar.

“Last year, for example, we produced and exported 22 tons of eggs,” adds Tamiji.

The color and size of the eggs also affect their added value. In Yoshi, it is exported in its natural form at prices ranging from $35 to $40 per kilogram.

While the caviar is exported, the mullet itself is sold fresh to the domestic market. And not only fish fillets are used. The stomachs are also exported and the entrails are used to make animal feed.

The mullet production chain shows that it is a cycle that goes beyond tradition and cultural heritage, it is a complete example of agro, health and cooperation. To watch the full episode on the mullet’s versatility, watch the video below.