Right now, the trends that revitalize the catwalks and social media are moving along a number of parallel paths: on the one hand, the minimalist and nonchalant elegance of the 90s, on the other, amazing glory. zero (read: years between 2000 and 2010) between sensuality and brilliance; on the one hand, the dissolution of cheap indie in a slender figure and rebellious attitude, on the other preppy style with that composure of a decent young lady – or not? Yes, because if it is undeniable that the style is inspired by the nobles American Ivy League Colleges back in vogue (actually a few seasons), its corrected and corrected version for 2023 very different from the definition that was made in the 80s Official Preppy Handbooksemi-satirical reference material written by Lisa Birnbach, who helped to sanctify this aesthetic, born in the elitist context of the boys’ schools of the late 19th century, anchor it in the ordinary imagination and, in fact, open it up to an ever-larger audience.
A direct heiress of the Ivy style, the preppy style of the last century defined this style of clothing. casual chic, luxurious but deliberately restrained which were distributed in country clubs and other elite establishments frequented by high society. And if anyone’s return to the scene immediately made one think about the romanticization of social contexts that for decades have confirmed snobbish attitudes towards various minorities, the truth is that in the rediscovery of tidiness filtered through the revealing lens of TikTok – which constantly, empties, re-invents – everything looks completely different. So here it is, as writer Ana Quiring writes in L.A. Review of Books, instead of glorifying an outmoded and unhealthy dynamic, the goal (if there really is one and it’s not just aesthetics) becomes the goal of “depriving the elite school environment of that aura of exclusivity” by making it accessible to all.
If the preppy style has long been considered the prerogative of W.A.S.P. extension (a white Anglo-Saxon Protestant), in reality his resonance has always been much more stratified than this: already around To60s ivy—actually a slightly more fashionable forerunner of preppy—leaves the stone monasteries of old North American colleges to move into the basements of the Village in New York City, reinterpreted in a much more interesting and contrasting way by jazz icons. and bebop like John Coltrane and Mr Teddy Edwards. It is this underground twist that pushes preppy into the thick of life. black culture, which would then confirm the trend in 2000s thanks to rappers like Kanye West AND Pharrell Williams who flaunt more and more Lacoste polo shirts, rugby shirts, varsity sweatshirts worn over a blazer.. And they do it on the notes of irreverent texts, which most often stand out against the backdrop of elite institutions and the hegemony of WASP. Colors and accessories light up in some cases: by Kendra James for Harpers Bazaar remember the video Hey Ya! (2003) Outcast like a parody classic preppy style due to the overuse of colors and eccentric accessories such as the beret and suspenders worn by Andre 3000 and Big Boi. And only thissubversive, ironic, at times political idea underlies the renewed interest in preppy fashion.
To dust off the old connection between university style and black culture in march 2022 it was right Ralph Laurenwho has always made this look an integral part of her DNA, presenting a collection inspired by Morehouse and Spelman, two colleges historically black. But L’inclusion it also comes on the genre front. Born as a purely masculine style, in the 70s. Brooks Brothers, one of the original promoters of the style, also paved the way for the women’s collection. If earlier it was a woman who stole from a man’s wardrobe, eventually incorporating a range of ribbed sweaters and Scottish wool jackets into her look, today, with fashion becoming more and more genderless, as Generation Z teaches us, all conditions are in okay. place for a fairer exchange. In the collections of Tom Brown neat becomes androgynousvolumes expand, structures fall apart to give life to new forms.
The new preppy is sexy first. This is evidenced by the rethinking by schoolgirls of such style icons as Bella Hadidbig lover visible combo loafers and socksas well as podiums. Between miniskirts and crop tops Miu Miu cuts length to a minimum, Chanel rethinks costume in tweed in micro version, Sandy Liang to the movement of the folds the skirt combines fitted tops in the style of the 90s. Myself sensuality and student style concepts have long been antipodes in a classic concept promoted by brands such as Brooks Brothers, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren to for the first time create an association between the two fu Abercrombie and Fitch in the 2000s by sanctioning a union that was destined to dominate the school appearance of thousands of teenagers around the world. In second place is a happy teen drama. gossip girl who today, again thanks to TikTok, is enjoying new fame with iconic looks and phrases. After all, what better excuse than “the scandalous lives of Manhattan’s elite” to support the theory that even student style can have its own sexy side? And so, unexpectedly, we found ourselves with Serena, in a plaid skirt, slightly open and a Parisian shirt between inviting and naive, and Blair, who hid provocative and flirty lingerie under her school uniform.
Galeotta was Miuccia Prada, and not so much with the dapper microskirt introduced in Fall/Winter 2022-2023, which revisits the classic school pleat in an ultra-low-waisted silhouette and short enough to show the pocket lining protruding from the hem, but overall from the 90s. can be said. It’s with her really the intellectual sphere takes over the fashionable context, restructuring the bourgeois codes give life new archetype: the image of a wealthy girl who is also intellectual, politically active, elegant in nature, because she comes from a rich family, but, of course, does not seek to flaunt it. shortugly chic Conceptually, Prada has much in common with today’s preppy: in both cases, it is about appropriating the stylistic language of an introverted world, elitist and largely outdated, in order to completely reverse its meaning, filling its provocative and progressive spirit, open to all.
Source: Elle